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As a participant on many bee forums, I hear these questions often, so I thought I would address them here. ____________________________________ Dzierzon, whose opinion I have the utmost faith in, says: "As the queen is capable of adapting the sex of the eggs to the cells, so she is also able to adapt the number of eggs to the requirements of the stock, and to circumstances in general. The few people who I've met who say they've been stung by a queen say it didn't hurt as bad as a worker.

When a colony is weak and the weather cool and unfavourable she only lays a few hundred eggs daily; but in populous colonies, and when pasture is plentiful, she deposits thousands. With the queen laying 1,000 to 3,000 eggs a day and bees living about six weeks, there are always some dead bees in front of the hive.

Spray some syrup on it or syrup with essential oils like Honey Bee Healthy, to cover the smell of the plastic. At any rate there is no longer the killing of bees that there was every day the dauby honey-board was replaced.”--C. So this advice is pretty useful in that range of climates. There is no reason to have extra empty space in a hive in the winter in the North. Make sure if you have bottom entrances that you have mouseguards on.

Since I started rearing queens in 2004 I've been handling hundreds of them a year. Jay Smith, a beekeeper who reared thousands of queens a year for decades, said he was only stung by one once and he said she stung him right where he had squished a queen earlier and he though she thought it was a queen. A lot of dead bees (piles of them) might be cause for concern because it may be a sign of pesticide poisoning or some other problem. " or "should I put 9 or 10 frames in my brood boxes?

The theory of doing 9 in the brood box is that there will be more cluster space, less swarming and less rolling of bees.

The reality, in my experience, is that it requires more bees to keep the brood warm, the surface of the combs is more irregular and this causes more rolling of the bees when removing frames.

5.4mm standard foundation is much larger than typical natural worker brood comb. Don't give them wax foundation mixed with plastic foundation or they will ignore the plastic and draw the wax. Hall, showed me his thick top-bars, and told me that they prevented the building up of so much burr-comb between the top-bars and the sections…and I am very glad that at the present day it can be dispensed with by having top-bars 1-1/8 inch wide and 7/8 inch thick, with a space of 1/4 inch between top-bar and section. Do you believe that a half-inch thick brood-frame top-bar will tend to prevent the bees building burr-comb on such frames, as well as the three-quarter inch top-bar? So I can only give a generalization and call on my own experience in the middle of the country.

Buy the wax coated plastic so they will accept it better. Not that there is an entire absence of burr-combs, but near enough to it so that one can get along much more comfortably than with the slat honey-board. I'm in Southeast Nebraska and used to be in Western Nebraska and the front range of the Rockies.